More elsewhere - Milwaukee - Bacchus

Time to chow down with long time friend and fellow chef Kerry Chace. The Chaceman travels a ton, so it was great to catch up with him over a nice meal. Linda and I had a grand time working through a huge and some what over-priced wine list to start. Bacchus is part of the Bartollota restaurant group based in Milwaukee, a collection of high-end, chef-driven venues serving on-trend food with spot on service. The service was fine - a little haughty since the server tried to sell two chefs a $88 porterhouse for two when asked what was a "not miss" on the menu. Come on, I know Tuesday evening is slow, but really read the guest better. We did find him to continue to be a bit competitive as it related to talking about food, wine and beverages through the whole meal (I'm getting this for my house, etc.). The menu was a smart list of starters, salads and entrees that echoed the seasonal goods available.

Linda and I shared the Tuna tartar with Wasabi tobikko as appy. Cucumbers and won ton chips rounded out the dish. The tuna was well seasoned and ice cold perched atop diced cucumbers that really gave the dish a bitter note instead of enhancing the sweetness. The won ton chips were super crispy platform for enjoying the tuna and the wonderful bursts of the wasabi tobikko really made your taste buds stand up and notice, all in all a solid 'B'. Kerry worked over the Seared Sea Scallops “Bartolotta” with sauteed mushrooms, truffle vinaigrette and Parmigiano: two beautiful day boat scallops that were perfectly seared. He must have enjoyed them because they were gone in a matter of minutes. The first course was in the books and all of us enjoyed the beginning of the evening. As far as wine, we selected a bottle of 2004 Paraduxx from Duckhorn - a meritage blend that was damn fine and tasty even though a bit over marked up.

Next up a walk through the garden - salads arrived - Linda and Kerry had Roasted Beets & Hidden Springs Cheese with grapes, Marcona almonds, arugula and “Blis” sherry vinegar salad. I had the Baby Spinach Salad with a grainy mustard dressing, house cured bacon lardons and a soft poached egg . Well, the beets on the beet salad were very one-dimensional and lacked any real seasoning or flavoring - I know beets. Linda is the one who introduced me to the joys of a well roasted beet, and this salad lacked any of the pizazz of hers. I think they both said their salad seemed deconstructed and did not deliver on the description. My salad also fell short of delivering the experience I was expecting. The house-cured lardons ended up being maple-cured, delivering a shock of sweetness I had not planned on. And the poached egg was actually soft boiled, which made the yolk firm and did not allow it to deliver the creaminess to the rest of the salad greens. Give this course a 'C' for showing up. I was hoping that this did not tip the hand for the entrees!

Here comes dinner - and none too soon... we all were very hungry! Kerry had the yummy Red Wine Braised Shortribs with sweet potato puree, parsnips and pearl onions a nice winter braise! Linda and I had the same thing, American Red Snapper with sweet potato puree, caramelized fennel and red wine-honey sauce. Both dishes were plated in an almost old-school style: an over worked and sauced plate that was a step back in time. Lots of demi glace and contrived use of orange, red, brown and white on both plates. Even though we 'eat with our eyes', these dishes tasted far better than they appeared. We enjoyed our entrees and finished the evening with an after dinner cocktail: Oban scotch for us and a Woodford Reserve for Chef Chace. We suggested he try it with a twist of orange to bring out the caramel and orange notes of the single batch bourbon, I think he found a new drink! We wrapped the evening and scooted out the door to our next stop, having a wonderful full tummy, and ready to rock out the rest of the evening.

Would I go back to Bacchus? Yes - I think it is a place worth visiting and getting to know when you go to Milwaukee!